A key advantage of the Romance car is its direct service to Hakone-Yumoto. Local trains terminate at Odawara, requiring a transfer to reach Hakone-Yumoto, though this transfer is covered by the Hakone Pass.
The usual Hakone route is anti-clockwise, but we went clockwise hoping for fewer people. However, there were still quite a few visitors, so it seems others had the same idea. The best way to avoid crowds in Hakone is to leave Tokyo as early as possible.
For more info on the route: https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5210.html
Day 03
1. Lake Ashinoko (Ashi)
Upon arrival, we immediately enjoyed some curry bread before taking a bus towards Moto-Hakone. While it's recommended to disembark at Hakone-machi and walk to Moto-Hakone, taking in sights like the Checkpoint Museum and Detached Palace Garden, we opted for a pirate ship across the lake. The scenery was stunning, with beautiful views of the lake, surrounding hills, and, best of all, Mount Fuji. We felt incredibly fortunate.
2. Hakone shrine
We were disappointed to miss the opportunity to visit the shrine and capture a photo of the iconic torii gate in Lake Ashi due to a lack of time. We're hoping to make it back someday to hike the original Hakone trail and explore the shrine.
3. Owakudani
A ropeway ride took us to Owakudani, Hakone's active volcanic valley, where we were rewarded with an even better view of Mount Fuji. The moment we arrived, the pungent aroma of sulfur made it clear we were in a volcanic zone. Sulfuric gas rose from the surrounding hills, creating a dramatic landscape. We ate Owakudani's famous black eggs, boiled in the area's volcanic waters.
4. Ryokan
With the winter daylight fading and the last ropeway ride scheduled for around 4:15 pm, we began our descent back to the ryokan. This involved a multi-stage journey: first, the ropeway down to Sounzan, followed by a Tozan cable car (tram) to Gora, and finally a ride on the Tozan railway to Tonosawa. Upon arrival, we found Tonosawa station to be quiet and unmanned.
It was quite dark when we arrived at the station, and we immediately went astray. Instead of crossing the platform, we kept ascending stairs, only to find ourselves at the top of a hill with no proper path. Surrounded by darkness, trees, the sounds of wind and a river, and a small graveyard, the scene, with its distant paper lamps, felt eerily like the movie Spirited Away. We turned back, finally exited the station correctly, and followed a dimly lit path to our ryokan, passing some abandoned houses along the way.
We were thrilled to arrive at our ryokan and immediately took advantage of our private onsen. After changing into yukata, we made our way to the dining room for a delightful traditional Japanese dinner. The highlight was sukiyaki, which we paired with warm sake. A post-dinner walk around the neighborhood capped off the perfect day.
Day 04
After a delightful Japanese breakfast at our ryokan, we set off for Owakudani via the anti-clockwise Hakone route. The Tozan train from Tonosawa to Gora was a highlight, offering spectacular views of autumn leaves and passing through numerous tunnels, creating a Ghibli-esque atmosphere. (This train is known as the "Hydrangea Train" in summer due to the blooming hydrangeas.) We arrived at a relatively quiet Owakudani, allowing us to enjoy one last look at the volcanic activity before returning to Hakone-Yumoto.
We strolled through Hakone-Yumoto, eating various street foods, before heading to Odawara to catch the Shinkansen to Kyoto. The train journey was incredibly fast; a speedometer app on my phone registered speeds reaching 300 km/h. We enjoyed Ekiben during the ride.
Conclusion
With its diverse offerings—from onsen and traditional ryokans to museums, shrines, and hiking—Hakone is a must-visit location in Japan, deserving of at least a two-night stay. I'm already planning a return trip.